Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Le Sentier de la Grande Pointe

Even the most indolent will bore eventually of the beach. The Grande Pointe Trail is located in Basse Terre, not far from the city of Trois-Rivìères.

Above, Anse Grande Ravine. The trail begins in the woods on the other side of the cove.

The trail cuts through varied landscape, beginning in somewhat dense vegetation, then dropping almost immediately to the coastline. The ocean winds blow inland constantly, forcing the seagrapes (les raisiniers, or coccoloba uvifera) to press itself against the hills.


Above, hiking along the windswept coastline, covered with seagrapes.

Before the trail winds away from the coastline and into dense vegetation, you come across an old battery dating from the 18th century.

In the forest, you will come across an old windmill, a vestige of the sugar plantation that used to exist here. The windmill sits upright only because a figuier maudit, the cursed fig tree, that has wrapped its roots around and inside it. It is the only standing windmill in Basse Terre. If you explore a bit, you will also find the other buildings associated with this former plantation.

Above, the trail turns from the coastline and back into dense vegetation.


Above, the old windmill, strangled by the roots of the figuier maudit, or wild banyan tree (ficus citrifolia).

The trail breaks out of the forest, towards the coast again, with sugar cane on the right and the Atlantic Ocean to the left.


Above, the trail is bordered to the right by sugar cane.

In a clearing, next to a tree and besides a small spring, you'll find two ancient petroglyphs, carved by the Amerindians. Pay attention; It is easy to miss. One petroglyph is found looking over the spring and is known as the ‘Sorcerer’. His ‘wife’ faces him on a lower rock, half submerged in a stream. It is thought that she depicts a water birth.

The trail continues past les Galets beach. This is a black sand beach facing Atlantic waters that carry a strong current and large-ish waves.


Above, les Galets beach.

The trail crosses the Coulisse River. During the wet season, or hivernage, the water gushes down as a small waterfall into a small pool. A rope has been provided to scale the face of the rock. After crossing the river, continue climbing until you reach the road. This is the end of the trail. If you follow the road to your left until you reach the picnic area. From the picnic area, there is a path that descends to Anse Duquery, a tiny cove with a tiny black sand beach.


Sentier de la Grande Pointe
One way trail passing through varied landscape with historical significance. Possibility of bathing in fresh water pool (during hivernage) and at two different black sand beaches. Picnic tables available at the end of the trail.
Location: Basse Terre, near Trois-Rivières. Take the N1 from Trois-Rivières heading to Pointe-à-Pitre for about 3.5 km (~1.5 miles), route de la Grande Pointe will be on your right.
Duration: 3 hours
Difficulty: medium. There is a steep, but easily manageable, descent at the beginning of the trail. Hikers must cross the river over the rocks.
Parking: yes, at either ends of the trail.

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