Anse à l'Eau

Wading into calm turquoise waters of Guadeloupe is always marvelous, but taking a dip in Anse à l'Eau is particularly good. Why? Once you leave the nationale, the road leading to the beach is unmarked. Without a detailed map, it is a matter of luck in finding the beach. In addition, the paved road ends quite a distance away from the beach, and those driving with anything less than a sport-utility vehicle will find it slow going.

However, the beach is definitely worth the effort. Anse à l'Eau offers a lovely bay with fine white sand. The break is quite far from the shore line, and there are no strong currents - perfect conditions for floating, floating, floating... Picturesque green hills surround the bay. At the foot of the hills, a thick growth of thorny brush prevents curious wandering.

There is, however, a shortage of shade. There is one measly coconut tree quite far back from the sand, and a few low-lying sea grapes or almond trees. There are a few shelters; arrive early to be sure to get one (especially on Sundays).


















Anse à l'Eau
A white sand beach facing a calm turquoise Atlantic. During the week, the beach is almost deserted, but becomes a gathering place for large family groups on the weekend (and especially Sunday). The beach offers no amenities besides picnic shelters; bring what you need with you.
Location: Between Le Moule and St. François. After Le Moule, going eastward on N5, look for a sign for Le Gaiac (a cantaloupe producer). Make a left turn after the sign. The road to the beach is unmarked; you will need a detailed map to find your way. The paved road will eventually lead to unpaved road. A sport-utility vehicle is not necessary, but helpful.
Parking: There is no designated area for parking. You may park on the dirt road behind the beach.
Food: None.
Public Showers: None.
Public Restrooms: None.

Plage de Roseau

While M.'s parents were visiting, I had a chance to visit the beach of Roseau, which is just outside Sainte-Mairie. Roseau is composed of a series of tiny bays, separated by breakwaters of black volcanic rock.

Beige sand covers the beach. Though, there is not so much beach as a narrow band of sand that quickly turns to dirt. The rather wide expanse of dirt is dotted with sea grapes and coconut trees.

The rocky arms of the breakwaters protect the tiny bays from waves. The water level rises very gradually...until it reaches a sandbar.
(Left: Each bay is a perfect pool. A swimmer is heading outwards while another is standing on the sandbar.)





The beach is less than 5 mins away by car from Sainte-Marie. It would be very easy to eat at a restaurant or to buy something at a bakery en bourg. On the beach itself, vendors set up tables to sell drinks (rum punch included), snacks and of course, coconut sorbets. There are a number of sheltered picnic tables towards the northern end of the beach.
(Left: A tourist buys himself a snack from a vendor.)


I'm afraid the pictures here do not do Roseau justice; I took these pictures as an overcast sky edged towards afternoon. Roseau is a bit rough - in the way the green overgrowth seems to push at the border of the beach itself, and in the way people sit in their cars, with their feet and arms dangling out, several feet from the lapping water. The mixed cocktails and white sand are elsewhere. Come here to escape the feeling that Guadeloupe remains a colony of France.















Plage de Roseau
A series of tiny bays, each lined with a narrow strip of beige sand (leading quickly to dirt). The water remains shallow quite far out and there are practically no waves, making it a very good choice for children and weak swimmers. However, do not attempt to swim from one bay to the next as there is a strong current. This is the closest beach to the heavily populated Capesterre-Belle-Eau; it is extremely popular with locals. Both the ambiance and crowds (especially on Sunday) reflect that. Come during the week for a bit of quiet; come on Sunday to feel like a local.
Location: Just outside of Sainte Marie, not far from Capesterre-Belle-Eau (Basse Terre)
Parking: Parking is officially limited to the road leading up to the beach, but this is usually ignored. Many people simply park their cars where the beach ends and the dirt begins. Apparently, there is a pay parking lot at the entrance to the beach, but we have never seen this in operation.
Food: There are various vendors who set up tables selling coconut tarts, rum punch, candy, etc.
Public Showers: Yes. Though, you barely want to walk within 5m of the building...
Public Restrooms: ...let alone use the toilets.

Le Sentier de la Grande Pointe

Even the most indolent will bore eventually of the beach. The Grande Pointe Trail is located in Basse Terre, not far from the city of Trois-Rivìères.

Above, Anse Grande Ravine. The trail begins in the woods on the other side of the cove.

The trail cuts through varied landscape, beginning in somewhat dense vegetation, then dropping almost immediately to the coastline. The ocean winds blow inland constantly, forcing the seagrapes (les raisiniers, or coccoloba uvifera) to press itself against the hills.


Above, hiking along the windswept coastline, covered with seagrapes.

Before the trail winds away from the coastline and into dense vegetation, you come across an old battery dating from the 18th century.

In the forest, you will come across an old windmill, a vestige of the sugar plantation that used to exist here. The windmill sits upright only because a figuier maudit, the cursed fig tree, that has wrapped its roots around and inside it. It is the only standing windmill in Basse Terre. If you explore a bit, you will also find the other buildings associated with this former plantation.

Above, the trail turns from the coastline and back into dense vegetation.


Above, the old windmill, strangled by the roots of the figuier maudit, or wild banyan tree (ficus citrifolia).

The trail breaks out of the forest, towards the coast again, with sugar cane on the right and the Atlantic Ocean to the left.


Above, the trail is bordered to the right by sugar cane.

In a clearing, next to a tree and besides a small spring, you'll find two ancient petroglyphs, carved by the Amerindians. Pay attention; It is easy to miss. One petroglyph is found looking over the spring and is known as the ‘Sorcerer’. His ‘wife’ faces him on a lower rock, half submerged in a stream. It is thought that she depicts a water birth.

The trail continues past les Galets beach. This is a black sand beach facing Atlantic waters that carry a strong current and large-ish waves.


Above, les Galets beach.

The trail crosses the Coulisse River. During the wet season, or hivernage, the water gushes down as a small waterfall into a small pool. A rope has been provided to scale the face of the rock. After crossing the river, continue climbing until you reach the road. This is the end of the trail. If you follow the road to your left until you reach the picnic area. From the picnic area, there is a path that descends to Anse Duquery, a tiny cove with a tiny black sand beach.


Sentier de la Grande Pointe
One way trail passing through varied landscape with historical significance. Possibility of bathing in fresh water pool (during hivernage) and at two different black sand beaches. Picnic tables available at the end of the trail.
Location: Basse Terre, near Trois-Rivières. Take the N1 from Trois-Rivières heading to Pointe-à-Pitre for about 3.5 km (~1.5 miles), route de la Grande Pointe will be on your right.
Duration: 3 hours
Difficulty: medium. There is a steep, but easily manageable, descent at the beginning of the trail. Hikers must cross the river over the rocks.
Parking: yes, at either ends of the trail.

Meeting a Wave

Ironically, I have no particular fondness for the beach nor the ocean.

I cannot say what effect living on an island has had on me; I am not sure myself. Though it is still with some awe that I often see the blue of the ocean or sea, peeking between tree tops, or spreading out before me as the car descends a steep slope.

Now that I find myself at the beach so often I have had a chance to get to know the ocean and the sea. I see how it changes from hour to hour, day to day, season to season.

The beach closest to our house is a lovely little black sand beach. The water it meets is the Atlantic ocean, and so waves are constant. Today, the waves were large - the largest I've seen - and unfurled impressively before crashing against the beach with a loud roar.

I may have been a strong swimmer once. During my last two years of high school, I swam in the school pool for several hours once a week. But that was years ago, and there is nothing comparable between swimming in a pool and swimming in open water, except that one gets wet. I am aware of this as I splash my way into the water, turning my back to the waves each time they come.

The cold water and the fear is exhilarating. The thought of drowning always comes to me every time I swim in the ocean. We swim quickly beyond the break of the waves, and bob up and down as the wave rolls past us. I tire quickly from treading water, and despite my desire to stay, fear moves me to swim back.

M. tells me to be careful but I swim towards the beach without thinking about the waves. I duck under two, but miss the third, which breaks on top of me, forcing me down against the sand. I see a flash of light blue before the rush of white. The wave retreats, carrying with it the mass of the ocean. I have not moved quickly enough, and so a wave breaks again on top of me.

I stagger back to the shore, my tongue salty from the two mouthfuls of water I swallowed. I turn around, and watch the waves, sobered by the chastisement. The waves continue to swell, break, and fall. The ocean throws itself against an imaginary wall, and for a split second, an aquarium 2 meters deep, displays its contents. With awe and horror, I see nearly the entire body of M. submerged in this wall of water, his legs and arms moving about. This insignificant wave could easily swallow humans whole. The water turns from a light blue at the top to a deep and ominous black at the very bottom. The wave breaks.

From the beach, I watch as M., a small white blob in a mass of blue, slowly makes his way towards me. He returns, unscathed, the ocean playfully nudging him forward from time to time. How has he left the water so calmly, I ask. You ignore the waves, he replies. They have a rhythm; smaller calmer waves follow the sequence of large crashing waves. You must know when to swim back. Clearly, I had not been paying attention.

The waves are difficult to ignore, and I watch them closely. Later, when I close my eyes while washing off, I can still see the waves swell, break, and fall.

Plage de Malendure

One of the beaches where M. and I go with some frequency is the the beach of Malendure, in the village of Bouillante. Its a lovely little black sand beach with calm waters. M. has done most of his dives here, in the waters around les îlets Pigeon, within eyesight of the beach. Les îlets Pigeon - bits of land just peeking above the water - are incredibly accessible and supports abundant sea life.

Like all black sand beaches, the sand absorbs and retains the heat from the sun with incredible efficiency. I like to lay my blanket down underneath the coco trees for a bit of shade. The only problem is that many of the coco trees are still quite young, and so, there can be a bit of competition for a spot, especially on Sundays, and especially during high season. But, we've always managed to find a good shady spot.

My favorite part about coming to Malendure, though, is lunch. We always have a bokit. I was a bit lost as to how to describe a bokit. Michelin guide describes it as "a sort of large donut, stuffed with vegetables, cod, or anything you want, like a sub" (1). But, I find that definition incredibly vague, not to mention unappetizing (a fish-stuffed donut, anyone?). I think the Michelin definition reflects the lack of imagination of the French when it comes to sandwiches; anything that isn't made with a baguette is not quite a sandwich.

Above, my bokit, most likely made with white flour, lard, eggs, butter, and stuffed with shredded rotisserie chicken, lettuce, sliced tomatoes, hot sauce (hot sauce optional).

Anyway, I finally realized that a bokit is quite similar to naan, but instead of being baked, it is deep fried. The similarities between the two are probably no coincidence, as much of the food here has been influenced by Indians who immigrated here at the end of the 19th century.


Above, Chez Hubert.

We buy our bokits from the yellow sandwich truck, 'Chez Hubert,' reviewed in the 2007 edition of Petit Futé. I've never actually seen Hubert, its maybe his wife or sister who runs a one-woman sandwich show. The wait can be long, but so very worth it.

*UPDATE* (April 8, 2009) Hubert no longer operates from the yellow truck, and has constructed a free standing restaurant. There is still seating at the 'counter' but this is now supplemented by a few tables. The bokits are still just as good, and the wait just as long.


(1) bokit: sorte de gros beignet fourré de légumes, de morue ou de tout ce qu'on veut à la manière des pans-bagnats



Plage de Malendure
Black sand beach, lined with coco trees, located in a small bay. The water is calm, and waves are relatively small. The beach is very popular with tourists as a number of diving clubs and a few glass bottom boats depart from Malendure for the îlets Pigeon.
Location: Pigeon/Bouillante (Basse Terre)
Parking: Ample parking in front of the tourist office, directly in front of the beach (note that the parking lot has been sectioned in two by some of the food trucks); parking along the road.
Food: A few restaurants; Numerous food shacks and food trucks selling a variety of sandwiches, salads, soft drinks, etc. Sheltered picnic tables along the beach.
Public Showers: Yes, one of five that has yet to be vandalized, located on the side of the tourist office.
Public Restrooms: Yes, located on the other side of the tourist office. The ladies room is locked when the tourist office is closed.

Plage de la Caravelle

Plage de la Caravelle is supposedly one of the most beautiful beaches in Guadeloupe. Its hard to say, since I think most beaches in Guadeloupe are pretty amazing.

La Caravelle falls within the commune of Sainte-Anne, which lies on the southern coast of Grande Terre (the eastern 'wing' of the Guadeloupe butterfly), facing a turquoise blue Atlantic Ocean.

There is public parking along the road leading to the beach. Its never been so crowded that there weren't any parking spaces left, but you can always park in the small private lots along the same road for a few euros. Signs posted can direct you.
(Left: The road leading to the beach. On the left, private houses. On the right, free parking!)



After you've parked the car, walk south along the dirt road. You may find the right side of the road littered with wood, corrugated metal, garbage. Not exactly promising for Guadeloupe's most beautiful beach. The road used to be lined with merchants selling beach garb, local crafts. There were even a few food stalls, and a place that rented windsurfing material at the end of the road, facing the water. But all of these merchants were asked to leave by the government in order to enforce French law (1) which prohibits any establishment within 50 meters of the coast.
(Above: The road lined with broken down stalls; in the foreground, the last remaining stall selling pareos, rasta-inspired clothing.)

The beach is public, even though it may not appear that way. At the end of the road you must pass through a little gate, somewhat resembling the HEET turnstiles in NYC subways. I suspect that the gates may be chained in the evening. Then, you walk by armed guards with german shepherds. They are somewhat less intimidating than it sounds, since both men and guards are usually lying about underneath an open tent. There will be a narrow path - dirt, then sand - with a low fence running along it. Behind the fence is the Club Med complex (and, the reason for the guards and dogs). Walk along the path until you find a nice spot.
(Above, the narrow path. That sideways palm tree is great for posing)

It can be a bit of a hike, depending on what part of the road you parked. So you may be tempted to spread out your towel at the first empty spot on the beach. But, the first section of the beach is rather windy. The breeze may seem nice after all the walking, but it will get tiresome. If you continue walking along the path until the path completes a full right turn - or, alternatively, until you pass the jolly roger - you'll come to the section that is best suited for lying about, windlessly.
(Above: Windy part of the beach, perfect for windsurfing.)

There is an invisible border marked by the small concrete pier. After this pier, most of the people on the beach will be Club Med guests, since the main entrance to the hotel lies further down along the low fence. Here, the beach chairs are for Club Med guests. The photographers are for Club Med guests. And, most painfully, the man wandering about with little cubes of watermelon on a platter, are also for Club Med guests. This, of course, does not prevent you in any way from choosing any spot beyond said pier. You will not be bothered. You simply won't get any watermelon.

If you get hungry, you have two options: You can either walk back to the dirt road where you parked your car. You probably already saw the small restaurants amongst the houses that serve sandwiches, and also full meals. Or, for those who are too lazy to make the trek, merchants wander up and down along the beach selling various and variously tasty things: crepes, sandwiches, cakes, donuts, pineapple, coconut. There is also a man, set up not far from the jolly roger, that sells fresh coconut juice. He hacks off a piece with his machete and pops in a straw. You can also buy non-food items, such as pareos, seashell necklaces, etc.
(Above: A wandering merchant showing a sunbather children's clothes made from madras and folk print cloth.)

















Plage de la Caravelle
A white sand beach facing turquoise waters, in front of Club Med, populated mostly by tourists from Club Med, with a mixture of couples and families. The beach and water are kept extremely clean. First section of the beach is ideal for windsurfing; entire beach has strong currents at times.
Location: Ste. Anne (Grand Terre)
Parking: Public parking along the road; private parking in small lots.
Food: Restaurants along the road to the beach; wandering food merchants.
Public Showers: None
Public Restrooms: None

(1) Loi Littoral

Weather in December

It must be a slow news day because French national news actually led with a piece on the extreme ice storm that hit New England this weekend. Its not unseasonably cold in New York, though. According to the records, the temperatures are fairly average. But I thought I would share with you the beach where I spent my Saturday:


La Chapelle beach, located in the city of Anse Bertrand, on the northern tip of Grande Terre.