Le Sentier de Beautiran

Above, the trail crossing bucolic countryside.

The history of the Beauport plantation begins in 1813, when Guillaume Rullier-Beauport buys a sugar cane plantation north of Petit-Canal in Grand Terre from Simon Babin. The abolition of slavery at the end of the French Revolution prompts the seizure of numerous plantations, and in 1836, the plantation of Beauport is sold to Dr Armand Souques. Beginning in 1863, under competitive pressures from beet sugar, Souques begins to buy neighboring plantations to create economies of scale. To link the vast tracts of land, Souques constructs a rail system, thereby creating the first industrial structure on the island. Even a port is built - Beautiran - from which sugar cane is shipped out and coal and fertilizers are shipped in. The plantation falls into bankruptcy in 1901 after nearly seven decades of ownership by the Souques family. The plantation would change hands numerous times until its definitive closure in 1990. The factory is now the site of a historical museum (1).

Above, the trail begins on a dirt path.

The trail first follows a dirt road, passing a few houses, but quickly leaves inhabited areas behind.

Above, an enormous figuier maudit.

The trail crosses a giant figuier maudit - a cursed fig tree - which has completely swallowed the ruins of a stone windmill. Both the tree and the windmill are impressive for their size. The trail turns here, passing by a small marsh.

Above, the trail follows a dirt road cut out by the tires of farmer's trucks.

The trail begins to skirt plots of sugar cane, which in late June was uncharacteristically high. Normally, all sugar cane would have already been cut, but the harvest this year was postponed by la grève. Still, the sugar cane is not high enough to provide shade from the sun, which at 10:30 in the morning beat down with determination.

Above, a mango tree and its unripe fruit.

Above, cows loll and chew all along the trail.

Above, pastoral countryside.

The trail climbs and descends gently sloping hills. From the top of these hills it is possible to see for miles: the seemingly endless plots of sugar cane, an occasional windmill ruin, and towns beyond.

The trail eventually leaves behind the sugar cane and crosses uncultivated countryside. Old trees shade the raised trail - the steel rails of the railroad having been long torn out - with views of meadows of green grass and marshes as small as large puddles wherever the land dips too low.

Above, the close quarters of the mangrove.

The trail enters sparse forest with roots in wet marsh-like soil before finally meeting the mangrove. Even at mid-day the mosquitos buzz ravenously and hikers pause at their peril! The mangrove grows sparse and the trail arrives at the coast. Ruins of both stone structures and steel transport system remain. A small modern chapel keeps watch for fishermen who set out to sea from Beautiran.

Above, vestiges of the past.

The day we hiked Beautiran, there dozens of men standing knee deep in the water - often fully dressed - , searching. Suddenly, they plunged their one gloved hand into the water to pull out a large crab, quickly throwing it into a sack. It was, according to one, mating season for the crabs and consequently, hunting season.


















Above, left, flowers by the shore, right, the day's catch in crabs.



(1) Beauport le pays de la canne




Le Sentier de Beautiran
A one way trail running alongside fields of sugar cane, with picturesque views of meadows and marshes, then crossing dense mangrove to end at the disused port of Beautiran.
Location: Grand Terre, near Petit-Canal; Leaving Petit-Canal on the N6 by the north in direction of Port-Louis, trail head is a road on the left marked by a bus shelter on the right.
Duration: 2H40 hours
Difficulty: Easy.
Parking: There is no designated parking area. Park along the road before or after the bus shelter.

La Trace Delgrès

Above, the panoramic view from the Beau Soleil picnic area.

Located in the mountains above Saint-Claude, La Trace Delgrès is named after Louis Delgrès, a man famous for having given his life to the cause of liberty in Guadeloupe. Born in Martinique in 1766, Delgrès joined the army at the age of 23. He distinguished himself in various conflicts with the English and rose quickly in rank. In 1802, slavery is reestablished in France by Napoleon Bonaparte. Delgrès leads the armed resistance with a small army of 300 men, composed mostly of former slaves and free colored men. Having had to abandon the fort of Basse Terre, Delgrès and his men are pushed back into the mountains in Saint-Claude. Facing certain defeat, Delgrès and his men commit suicide by setting off their own ammunition store, thereby dying by the revolutionary slogan, "Vivre libre ou mourir."

The hike begins behind the Beau Soleil picnic area on the road leading to the Bains Jaunes, the hot spring baths on La Soufrière. The path immediately narrows as the thick humid forest closes in on both sides.

The trail follows Le Pelletier Canal for approximately 110 yards (100m). A path has been worn alongside the entire length of the canal; take care to follow trail markings. The trail will take a left, leaving the canal behind.












In general, the forest is quite humid. But, after a day of rain the path can be easily confused with a long river of thick mud (1).

Above, the muddy path.

Pay close attention to trail markings. The forest thins, and the trees no longer huddle together tightly. Well-cleared paths depart from the trail, but lead nowhere.

Above, a massive root crossing the path. Note, if you come across this specific spot not far from the canal, you have missed the turn. Turn back.

The trail continues and crosses a ravine.

Above, a large tree has fallen over the ravine, across the path of the trail.

The forest easily seems enchanted. Tangles of roots cross and recross the path of the trail like the living arms of the forest. Small insects dance across puddles, moving so quickly that the mind can imagine fairies. A type of frog or bird chirps in repetitive twos. The tinny noise resembles the clanking of a miniature hammer on an anvil, conjuring dwarves hard at work in their mines.

Above, an electric blue dragon fly.












Above left, a fern unfurling; right, some alien plant.


Above, the hanging roots of Clusia mangle (?), and new growth squirming out like a bright yellow worm.

The trail approaches a river, the delicious sounds of rushing water growing louder and louder. The water level that day was not very high, but there were very small pools, some quite deep, where one could possibly bathe. The water is frigid though, and does not encourage anything more than a quick dip.

Above, the river widens and forms shallow pools perfect for bathing tired limbs.

The trail continues up from the river. It is a steep climb upwards on what seems less like a mountain than an undulating landslide. I have no pictures from this hour of hiking as my hands were otherwise occupied, gripping slim tree trunks and sturdy roots, splayed over wet brown mud.

The dense, wet forest breaks suddenly into a flat and dry plateau. From the plateau, a view of the Monts Caraïbes, Gourbeyre, Basse-Terre, Baillif and if its clear, Les Saintes islands in the distance.

Above, a view of Basse Terre, and Les Saintes in the distance.

The trail slowly descends and as the forest thins, small plots of green onion suddenly appear. Soon, the trail opens out onto a clearing and a beautiful sloping hillside with a view of the Caribbean at the horizon.

Above, rows upon rows of green onion.

The trail finishes along a dirt road worn with truck tracks, and ends on a paved concrete road not far from the Clinique des Eaux Vives de Matouba.




La Trace Delgrès
A one way trail passing through dense humid forest at the foot of La Soufrière volcano. The trail crosses numerous ravines, and one river. The trail ends with a panoramic view of southern Basse-Terre. Picnic tables available at the beginning of the trail.
Location: Trail head is located behind the Beau Soleil picnic area on the Route des Bains Jaunes, north of Saint-Claude, in Basse Terre.
Duration: 4 ½ hours (ONF estimate is 3 hours)
Difficulty: Difficult. During hivernage (wet season) or after rain, the trail becomes incredibly muddy. After the river crossing, the trail climbs steeply over difficult terrain.
Parking: There is no official parking area for the Beau Soleil picnic area; park alongside the road. If a second vehicle is available, you may leave it in the parking lot of Clinique des Eaux Vives in Matouba, at the end of the trail.




(1) It is perhaps pointless to avoid muddying yourself. It is not altogether possible, especially during the ascent after the river crossing.

La Maison du Bois

The commune of Pointe-Noire is located on the western coast of North Basse Terre. The region of Pointe-Noire has historically been dependent on the exportation and transformation of wood. It is here that the national parks department (Parc National de Guadeloupe) has built La Maison du Bois (The House of Wood).

La Maison du Bois is composed of two parts: a small interactive museum dedicated to the history of wood and woodworking in Pointe Noire, and an outdoor arboretum.

Inside la Maison, wooden utensils, toys, and various wooden artifacts are on display in the first rooms.

Left, a bamboo fish trap.


In the following rooms, there are displays discussing the economic and ecological impact of wood in the region. Informative panels demonstrate the differences in wood types and uses.

The highlight is a reconstruction of a traditional case (shack). The furniture and items featured inside the house belonged to an actual family from Pointe-Noire. In a video shown on the opposite wall, one of the daughters - now well into her 50's - describes growing up as a child in this case.

A carpenter's studio dominates one corner of la Maison du Bois. The collection of tools is impressive. You won't find any table saws or power sanders here. There are demonstrations of woodworking from time to time, but on the day of my visit, the tools sat unused on the work table covered with sawdust.

At the end of the visit, two large rooms have been set aside for local carpenters to show off their creations. Excellent craftmanship and particular care is evident in all the pieces. While a few items seem to strive for more contemporary and modern design, most of the furniture follows more traditional design.

Left, slightly awkward forms on an otherwise beautiful lounging chair.


Outside la Maison du Bois, a wooden walkway meanders through the grounds. Various species of trees line the walkway. There are several gazebos, and on the day of our visit, one was occupied by a drummer who was demonstrating the different beats of gwo-ka, a traditional music of Guadeloupe.

Above, the wooden walkway meanders through a sparse and dry arboretum.

Ultimately, La Maison du Bois is a bit of a disappointment. Despite the museum-quality displays, the visitor experience leaves much to be desired. Displays in one room sat in the dark. The wooden toys and fishermen's tools were dusty. The English subtitles for the video inside the reconstructed case refused to appear. The entire 3-panelled audio display for traditional Créole folk stories was not working. The signage for the trees were all water damaged and barely legible. The specimens themselves were hardly spectacular.

Despite the interesting topic, the displays themselves remain uninteresting. This is a fact has not escaped the staff; Perhaps in a last ditch effort to keep the visitor interested, computer print-outs of Créole sayings, with the French translation underneath, were scotch-taped to the walls of La Maison.

La Maison is probably far more interesting if presented by a guide, and would definitely benefit from everything being in working order (the lights, the audio, the carpenter's studio, etc.). While younger children might appreciate the interactiveness of the place, adults may find themselves hurrying out the door to get back to the beach.

Le Sentier du Houëlmont

Like most masses found on BasseTerre, Houëlmont is an ancient volcano. No longer active, Houëlmont plays the plain older sister to La Soufrière. Houëlmont is not without its charms, they are simply much more subtle.

Above, left to right, the trail cuts through dry forest before winding through dense humid vegetation.

The trail begins on the western side of Houëlmont. This area constitutes the rain shadow, and the vegetation is uncharacteristically dry for BasseTerre. The wide trail climbs slowly but steadily up to circle the summit. The vegetation becomes lush, deep green. It grows dense, and the change in moisture is palpable. It is here that hikers are reminded of Houëlmont's origins, with massive boulders of black volcanic rock forcing the path to twist and turn.

Above, a cluster of mushrooms on a tree stump.

There are a few things to look out for. There are two small plots of colonial era graves, one located at the beginning of the trail, and one at the end. They are untended, and the undergrowth threatens to cover the first plot almost entirely. The ONF guide also notes a Mahogany planatation, and several remarkable examples of local flora, but a human guide is probably necessary to pinpoint their location.

Above, left to right, the easy bits and the difficult bits.

The trail varies wildly in character. The trail begins wide in the dry forest, then stumbles over and around huge boulders in the humid forest. There are sections which have been paved for vehicles, as well as wide path strewn with rocks the perfect size for tripping over.

One major shortcoming of this trail is that it isn't a real loop. At the bottom of Houëlmont, the trail exits the forest to join a public road. The road is lined with private residences and small hotels, all with remarkable views of the ocean. It is pretty enough, but the walk is unshaded and the heat can be suffocating. The trail re-enters the forest, and its a steep climb back to the car. After almost 2 hours of hiking around the summit of Houëlmont, the last leg will seem uninteresting, and ultimately unnecessary. If a second car is available, it should be parked at the Rivière Sens Marina.

If you are determined to finish the hike and close the loop, it is still possible to make a detour to the Marina of Rivière Sens. If you want to stop for a bite or a drink, La Kaz à Delices is a perfect lunch spot.




Le Sentier du Houëlmont
A loop trail circling the peak of Houëlmont through both dry and semi-humid forest, passing two small colonial era cemeteries. Possibility of taking a detour to visit the volcanologic and seismologic observatory (L'Observatoire Volcanologique et Sismologique de Guadeloupe).
Location: Basse Terre, Gourbeyre, in the section of Bisdary.
Duration: 2 hours
Difficulty: Medium. The trail is littered with volcanic rock in certain sections.
Parking: Yes, park alongside the municipal sports field at the beginning of the trail. If a second vehicle is available, park it at Rivière Sens Marina to avoid the last bit of trail which is somewhat tedious.

Le Sentier de la Grande Pointe

Even the most indolent will bore eventually of the beach. The Grande Pointe Trail is located in Basse Terre, not far from the city of Trois-Rivìères.

Above, Anse Grande Ravine. The trail begins in the woods on the other side of the cove.

The trail cuts through varied landscape, beginning in somewhat dense vegetation, then dropping almost immediately to the coastline. The ocean winds blow inland constantly, forcing the seagrapes (les raisiniers, or coccoloba uvifera) to press itself against the hills.


Above, hiking along the windswept coastline, covered with seagrapes.

Before the trail winds away from the coastline and into dense vegetation, you come across an old battery dating from the 18th century.

In the forest, you will come across an old windmill, a vestige of the sugar plantation that used to exist here. The windmill sits upright only because a figuier maudit, the cursed fig tree, that has wrapped its roots around and inside it. It is the only standing windmill in Basse Terre. If you explore a bit, you will also find the other buildings associated with this former plantation.

Above, the trail turns from the coastline and back into dense vegetation.


Above, the old windmill, strangled by the roots of the figuier maudit, or wild banyan tree (ficus citrifolia).

The trail breaks out of the forest, towards the coast again, with sugar cane on the right and the Atlantic Ocean to the left.


Above, the trail is bordered to the right by sugar cane.

In a clearing, next to a tree and besides a small spring, you'll find two ancient petroglyphs, carved by the Amerindians. Pay attention; It is easy to miss. One petroglyph is found looking over the spring and is known as the ‘Sorcerer’. His ‘wife’ faces him on a lower rock, half submerged in a stream. It is thought that she depicts a water birth.

The trail continues past les Galets beach. This is a black sand beach facing Atlantic waters that carry a strong current and large-ish waves.


Above, les Galets beach.

The trail crosses the Coulisse River. During the wet season, or hivernage, the water gushes down as a small waterfall into a small pool. A rope has been provided to scale the face of the rock. After crossing the river, continue climbing until you reach the road. This is the end of the trail. If you follow the road to your left until you reach the picnic area. From the picnic area, there is a path that descends to Anse Duquery, a tiny cove with a tiny black sand beach.


Sentier de la Grande Pointe
One way trail passing through varied landscape with historical significance. Possibility of bathing in fresh water pool (during hivernage) and at two different black sand beaches. Picnic tables available at the end of the trail.
Location: Basse Terre, near Trois-Rivières. Take the N1 from Trois-Rivières heading to Pointe-à-Pitre for about 3.5 km (~1.5 miles), route de la Grande Pointe will be on your right.
Duration: 3 hours
Difficulty: medium. There is a steep, but easily manageable, descent at the beginning of the trail. Hikers must cross the river over the rocks.
Parking: yes, at either ends of the trail.