La Trace Delgrès

Above, the panoramic view from the Beau Soleil picnic area.

Located in the mountains above Saint-Claude, La Trace Delgrès is named after Louis Delgrès, a man famous for having given his life to the cause of liberty in Guadeloupe. Born in Martinique in 1766, Delgrès joined the army at the age of 23. He distinguished himself in various conflicts with the English and rose quickly in rank. In 1802, slavery is reestablished in France by Napoleon Bonaparte. Delgrès leads the armed resistance with a small army of 300 men, composed mostly of former slaves and free colored men. Having had to abandon the fort of Basse Terre, Delgrès and his men are pushed back into the mountains in Saint-Claude. Facing certain defeat, Delgrès and his men commit suicide by setting off their own ammunition store, thereby dying by the revolutionary slogan, "Vivre libre ou mourir."

The hike begins behind the Beau Soleil picnic area on the road leading to the Bains Jaunes, the hot spring baths on La Soufrière. The path immediately narrows as the thick humid forest closes in on both sides.

The trail follows Le Pelletier Canal for approximately 110 yards (100m). A path has been worn alongside the entire length of the canal; take care to follow trail markings. The trail will take a left, leaving the canal behind.












In general, the forest is quite humid. But, after a day of rain the path can be easily confused with a long river of thick mud (1).

Above, the muddy path.

Pay close attention to trail markings. The forest thins, and the trees no longer huddle together tightly. Well-cleared paths depart from the trail, but lead nowhere.

Above, a massive root crossing the path. Note, if you come across this specific spot not far from the canal, you have missed the turn. Turn back.

The trail continues and crosses a ravine.

Above, a large tree has fallen over the ravine, across the path of the trail.

The forest easily seems enchanted. Tangles of roots cross and recross the path of the trail like the living arms of the forest. Small insects dance across puddles, moving so quickly that the mind can imagine fairies. A type of frog or bird chirps in repetitive twos. The tinny noise resembles the clanking of a miniature hammer on an anvil, conjuring dwarves hard at work in their mines.

Above, an electric blue dragon fly.












Above left, a fern unfurling; right, some alien plant.


Above, the hanging roots of Clusia mangle (?), and new growth squirming out like a bright yellow worm.

The trail approaches a river, the delicious sounds of rushing water growing louder and louder. The water level that day was not very high, but there were very small pools, some quite deep, where one could possibly bathe. The water is frigid though, and does not encourage anything more than a quick dip.

Above, the river widens and forms shallow pools perfect for bathing tired limbs.

The trail continues up from the river. It is a steep climb upwards on what seems less like a mountain than an undulating landslide. I have no pictures from this hour of hiking as my hands were otherwise occupied, gripping slim tree trunks and sturdy roots, splayed over wet brown mud.

The dense, wet forest breaks suddenly into a flat and dry plateau. From the plateau, a view of the Monts Caraïbes, Gourbeyre, Basse-Terre, Baillif and if its clear, Les Saintes islands in the distance.

Above, a view of Basse Terre, and Les Saintes in the distance.

The trail slowly descends and as the forest thins, small plots of green onion suddenly appear. Soon, the trail opens out onto a clearing and a beautiful sloping hillside with a view of the Caribbean at the horizon.

Above, rows upon rows of green onion.

The trail finishes along a dirt road worn with truck tracks, and ends on a paved concrete road not far from the Clinique des Eaux Vives de Matouba.




La Trace Delgrès
A one way trail passing through dense humid forest at the foot of La Soufrière volcano. The trail crosses numerous ravines, and one river. The trail ends with a panoramic view of southern Basse-Terre. Picnic tables available at the beginning of the trail.
Location: Trail head is located behind the Beau Soleil picnic area on the Route des Bains Jaunes, north of Saint-Claude, in Basse Terre.
Duration: 4 ½ hours (ONF estimate is 3 hours)
Difficulty: Difficult. During hivernage (wet season) or after rain, the trail becomes incredibly muddy. After the river crossing, the trail climbs steeply over difficult terrain.
Parking: There is no official parking area for the Beau Soleil picnic area; park alongside the road. If a second vehicle is available, you may leave it in the parking lot of Clinique des Eaux Vives in Matouba, at the end of the trail.




(1) It is perhaps pointless to avoid muddying yourself. It is not altogether possible, especially during the ascent after the river crossing.