Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Le Sentier du Houëlmont

Like most masses found on BasseTerre, Houëlmont is an ancient volcano. No longer active, Houëlmont plays the plain older sister to La Soufrière. Houëlmont is not without its charms, they are simply much more subtle.

Above, left to right, the trail cuts through dry forest before winding through dense humid vegetation.

The trail begins on the western side of Houëlmont. This area constitutes the rain shadow, and the vegetation is uncharacteristically dry for BasseTerre. The wide trail climbs slowly but steadily up to circle the summit. The vegetation becomes lush, deep green. It grows dense, and the change in moisture is palpable. It is here that hikers are reminded of Houëlmont's origins, with massive boulders of black volcanic rock forcing the path to twist and turn.

Above, a cluster of mushrooms on a tree stump.

There are a few things to look out for. There are two small plots of colonial era graves, one located at the beginning of the trail, and one at the end. They are untended, and the undergrowth threatens to cover the first plot almost entirely. The ONF guide also notes a Mahogany planatation, and several remarkable examples of local flora, but a human guide is probably necessary to pinpoint their location.

Above, left to right, the easy bits and the difficult bits.

The trail varies wildly in character. The trail begins wide in the dry forest, then stumbles over and around huge boulders in the humid forest. There are sections which have been paved for vehicles, as well as wide path strewn with rocks the perfect size for tripping over.

One major shortcoming of this trail is that it isn't a real loop. At the bottom of Houëlmont, the trail exits the forest to join a public road. The road is lined with private residences and small hotels, all with remarkable views of the ocean. It is pretty enough, but the walk is unshaded and the heat can be suffocating. The trail re-enters the forest, and its a steep climb back to the car. After almost 2 hours of hiking around the summit of Houëlmont, the last leg will seem uninteresting, and ultimately unnecessary. If a second car is available, it should be parked at the Rivière Sens Marina.

If you are determined to finish the hike and close the loop, it is still possible to make a detour to the Marina of Rivière Sens. If you want to stop for a bite or a drink, La Kaz à Delices is a perfect lunch spot.




Le Sentier du Houëlmont
A loop trail circling the peak of Houëlmont through both dry and semi-humid forest, passing two small colonial era cemeteries. Possibility of taking a detour to visit the volcanologic and seismologic observatory (L'Observatoire Volcanologique et Sismologique de Guadeloupe).
Location: Basse Terre, Gourbeyre, in the section of Bisdary.
Duration: 2 hours
Difficulty: Medium. The trail is littered with volcanic rock in certain sections.
Parking: Yes, park alongside the municipal sports field at the beginning of the trail. If a second vehicle is available, park it at Rivière Sens Marina to avoid the last bit of trail which is somewhat tedious.

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