Le Sentier de Beautiran

Above, the trail crossing bucolic countryside.

The history of the Beauport plantation begins in 1813, when Guillaume Rullier-Beauport buys a sugar cane plantation north of Petit-Canal in Grand Terre from Simon Babin. The abolition of slavery at the end of the French Revolution prompts the seizure of numerous plantations, and in 1836, the plantation of Beauport is sold to Dr Armand Souques. Beginning in 1863, under competitive pressures from beet sugar, Souques begins to buy neighboring plantations to create economies of scale. To link the vast tracts of land, Souques constructs a rail system, thereby creating the first industrial structure on the island. Even a port is built - Beautiran - from which sugar cane is shipped out and coal and fertilizers are shipped in. The plantation falls into bankruptcy in 1901 after nearly seven decades of ownership by the Souques family. The plantation would change hands numerous times until its definitive closure in 1990. The factory is now the site of a historical museum (1).

Above, the trail begins on a dirt path.

The trail first follows a dirt road, passing a few houses, but quickly leaves inhabited areas behind.

Above, an enormous figuier maudit.

The trail crosses a giant figuier maudit - a cursed fig tree - which has completely swallowed the ruins of a stone windmill. Both the tree and the windmill are impressive for their size. The trail turns here, passing by a small marsh.

Above, the trail follows a dirt road cut out by the tires of farmer's trucks.

The trail begins to skirt plots of sugar cane, which in late June was uncharacteristically high. Normally, all sugar cane would have already been cut, but the harvest this year was postponed by la grève. Still, the sugar cane is not high enough to provide shade from the sun, which at 10:30 in the morning beat down with determination.

Above, a mango tree and its unripe fruit.

Above, cows loll and chew all along the trail.

Above, pastoral countryside.

The trail climbs and descends gently sloping hills. From the top of these hills it is possible to see for miles: the seemingly endless plots of sugar cane, an occasional windmill ruin, and towns beyond.

The trail eventually leaves behind the sugar cane and crosses uncultivated countryside. Old trees shade the raised trail - the steel rails of the railroad having been long torn out - with views of meadows of green grass and marshes as small as large puddles wherever the land dips too low.

Above, the close quarters of the mangrove.

The trail enters sparse forest with roots in wet marsh-like soil before finally meeting the mangrove. Even at mid-day the mosquitos buzz ravenously and hikers pause at their peril! The mangrove grows sparse and the trail arrives at the coast. Ruins of both stone structures and steel transport system remain. A small modern chapel keeps watch for fishermen who set out to sea from Beautiran.

Above, vestiges of the past.

The day we hiked Beautiran, there dozens of men standing knee deep in the water - often fully dressed - , searching. Suddenly, they plunged their one gloved hand into the water to pull out a large crab, quickly throwing it into a sack. It was, according to one, mating season for the crabs and consequently, hunting season.


















Above, left, flowers by the shore, right, the day's catch in crabs.



(1) Beauport le pays de la canne




Le Sentier de Beautiran
A one way trail running alongside fields of sugar cane, with picturesque views of meadows and marshes, then crossing dense mangrove to end at the disused port of Beautiran.
Location: Grand Terre, near Petit-Canal; Leaving Petit-Canal on the N6 by the north in direction of Port-Louis, trail head is a road on the left marked by a bus shelter on the right.
Duration: 2H40 hours
Difficulty: Easy.
Parking: There is no designated parking area. Park along the road before or after the bus shelter.