Plage de Roseau

While M.'s parents were visiting, I had a chance to visit the beach of Roseau, which is just outside Sainte-Mairie. Roseau is composed of a series of tiny bays, separated by breakwaters of black volcanic rock.

Beige sand covers the beach. Though, there is not so much beach as a narrow band of sand that quickly turns to dirt. The rather wide expanse of dirt is dotted with sea grapes and coconut trees.

The rocky arms of the breakwaters protect the tiny bays from waves. The water level rises very gradually...until it reaches a sandbar.
(Left: Each bay is a perfect pool. A swimmer is heading outwards while another is standing on the sandbar.)





The beach is less than 5 mins away by car from Sainte-Marie. It would be very easy to eat at a restaurant or to buy something at a bakery en bourg. On the beach itself, vendors set up tables to sell drinks (rum punch included), snacks and of course, coconut sorbets. There are a number of sheltered picnic tables towards the northern end of the beach.
(Left: A tourist buys himself a snack from a vendor.)


I'm afraid the pictures here do not do Roseau justice; I took these pictures as an overcast sky edged towards afternoon. Roseau is a bit rough - in the way the green overgrowth seems to push at the border of the beach itself, and in the way people sit in their cars, with their feet and arms dangling out, several feet from the lapping water. The mixed cocktails and white sand are elsewhere. Come here to escape the feeling that Guadeloupe remains a colony of France.















Plage de Roseau
A series of tiny bays, each lined with a narrow strip of beige sand (leading quickly to dirt). The water remains shallow quite far out and there are practically no waves, making it a very good choice for children and weak swimmers. However, do not attempt to swim from one bay to the next as there is a strong current. This is the closest beach to the heavily populated Capesterre-Belle-Eau; it is extremely popular with locals. Both the ambiance and crowds (especially on Sunday) reflect that. Come during the week for a bit of quiet; come on Sunday to feel like a local.
Location: Just outside of Sainte Marie, not far from Capesterre-Belle-Eau (Basse Terre)
Parking: Parking is officially limited to the road leading up to the beach, but this is usually ignored. Many people simply park their cars where the beach ends and the dirt begins. Apparently, there is a pay parking lot at the entrance to the beach, but we have never seen this in operation.
Food: There are various vendors who set up tables selling coconut tarts, rum punch, candy, etc.
Public Showers: Yes. Though, you barely want to walk within 5m of the building...
Public Restrooms: ...let alone use the toilets.